Melograno

Melagrano

2012 Sansom St.

Philadelphia, PA 19103

(215)875-8116

Immediately as you enter Melograno, an Italian BYOB located on the outskirts of the Rittenhouse area of Philadelphia, you are met with a robust and noisy atmosphere. The aromas wafting through the single, large room are overwhelmed only by the loud conversation concentrated by the beige walls. The feel is part Tuscan eatery, part cafeteria, but the cuisine is anything but ordinary.

Hailed by many as one of the top Italian BYOBs in Philadelphia, the food lived up to its billing. We enjoyed the following dishes:

Pappardelle Tartufate

Description according to menu: "Homemade pappardelle pasta served in a wild mushroom sauce infused with truffle oil, sprinkled with Tuscan pecorino cheese and walnuts."

General Tso's Take

For me, this dish was pretty average. I only took a few bites, but the flavor profile did not do the exotic name justice. Essentially, similar results could be achieved by overcooking pasta at home and sprinkling button mushrooms on top. Napoleon noted during our meal that each bite was hit or miss, but I must have been unlucky that day because I never got a bite that was a hit.

Critic's Rating: 2.5/5.0

Cotoletta Di Pollo Alla Senese

Description according to menu: "Pan fried breaded chicken breast topped with prosciutto di parma, fresh mozzarella, sliced tomato and baby arucola."

Rabbit

Menu description not available

General Tso's Take

This dish came highly recommended by our waiter, so I jumped at the opportunity to try a more exotic type of meat. The dish was nearly perfect. Although simple in presentation, the flavors are powerful, yet not overwhelming. Cooked to a point of doneness that allows it to retain much of its moisture, the rabbit was tender and melted in my mouth. Unfortunately, the rabbit itself added little to the meal, as it tasted exactly like well-cooked chicken. I had expected somewhat of a gamey flavor and texture, but I was disappointed. The stuffing was composed mainly of spinach, which was not bitter nor dry; it was a perfect compliment to the less flavorful rabbit. Finally, the sauce was decadent. Buttery and smooth, it did not congeal as it cooled, which tends to happen to poorly cooked cheese sauces. It retained its texture and provided the bulk of the flavor of the dish. I won't lie when I say that I could literally put that sauce on a doorknob and have it be tasty.

Critic's Rating: 4.4/5.0

Ravioli di Rape Rosse

Description according to menu: "Fresh ravioli filled with roasted beets and mascarpone cheese, finished in a light butter sage and poppy seed sauce."

General Tso's Take

This dish was the highlight of the evening. With a flavor reminiscent of our dinner at Modo Mio, the ravioli combined both savory and sweet elements, but to a degree that Modo Mio could not match. The brown butter sauce was not overpowering as brown butter sauce tends to be, but added the wonderfully nutty flavor it is known for. Although I'm not a fan of beets, this dish may have changed my mind. The filling accentuated the sweetness of the beet without making it like a dessert. I would highly recommend this dish, as it was one of the better dishes I have sampled in Philadelphia.

Critic's Rating: 5.0/5.0

Budino

Menu description not available

Coconut Panna Cotta

Menu description not available

General Tso's Take

To end my meal, I had a slightly above average panna cotta. The panna cotta was smooth and creamy, as panna cottas tend to be, however the flavor was much more subtle than those that I have made at home. Although this dessert is known as delicate, I contend that the flavor should not be. The citrus sauces tended to overwhelm the flavor of the panna cotta to the point that I might as well have had a fruit salad in yogurt. Finally, I could not detect much coconut flavor, if any, in the panna cotta. A good palette cleanser, but that is not what I wanted nor expected.

Critic's Rating: 2.5/5.0

Service and Atmosphere: Despite being told that there is usually an hour wait on weekend nights, we were seated within 15 minutes, which was a happy surprise. Our waiter was polite and engaging, and the corking service was free. Unfortunately, the waiter forgot about us halfway through our meal, and we had to order desserts through another waiter. However, the quality of the food overshadowed any flaws in the service. As noted previously, the restaurant is very loud, and if one is in a particularly irritable mood, the need to yell across the table might push one over the edge. But, as before, the food and the lighthearted feel of the restaurant make up for this.

Overall: Melograno lives up to the hype. If you choose the right dish, you will not be disappointed.

Overall rating: 4.0/5.0